What is nap in sewing?

When you're buying some fabric online or in store, or browsing sewing patterns, you might come across the term 'nap'. But what does this mean? And how is it important to achieving successful sewing projects?

In this post we'll give you the lowdown on fabric nap and demystify this confusing-sounding word. Here's everything you need to know about nap in sewing:

What's the definition of nap?

Quite simply, a napped fabric, or fabric nap, is the fuzzy, textured side of a fabric. In its earliest usage during the Middle Ages, the word was used to describe a woven fabric where the surface hasn't been shorn, leaving a raised surface, or nap.

Later, it became a more general term for the pile of a fabric –so, rather than being a surface that wasn't cut, it referred to a deliberate addition. Fabrics like velvet, velour, carpet, corduroy, suede and rugs have pile thanks to the additional secondary yarn woven through the original cloth.

Wool and cotton fabrics are processed with a raised nap as part of the manufacturing process. The nap is then trimmed before finishing. Linen fabric doesn't have nap.

How will I know if my fabric has nap?

When sewing with a fabric it's important to know if it's napped fabric or fabric without nap. If you haven't established this you can end up with a garment where the fabric appears darker in places or has a raise texture in some places if different fabrics are used. Different types of fabric may not work well in the same sewing project, unless you're going for a contrasting surface or look. So pay attention to nap in sewing!

To see if your fabric has nap hold it up and see if the color appears lighter or darker in different light.

You can also look above and below the fabric. If it looks the same there is no nap.

You can also feel the texture and fibres of the fabric. Run your hand down part of the fabric in one direction. Then run it back in the opposite direction next to where you first touched it. If the fabric looks different, or feels smooth in one direction but rough in another direction, then it's fabric with nap.

To make sure you keep the nap running smoothly you can mark the fabric with an arrow to show the direction of the nap.

Sewing with a nap fabric pattern

If your fabric has nap you'll need a pattern that takes this into account. You may also find your pattern packet specifies that you use a napped fabric. Some pattern envelopes are marked 'with nap' or 'without nap' layout to show what type of fabric is required.

When cutting out fabric with nap you need to lay all the pieces the same way up and cut in the same direction. This ensures the finished surface has the same texture and finish. You will also find some sewing patterns for a particular fabric with a one direction pattern will instruct you to use 'with nap', meaning keep the pattern running one way.

If your pattern is 'without nap' you can layout and cut your fabric in any direction.

Check whether your pattern has allowed for the nap, or whether you need to allow extra to lay the pattern pieces in the same direction.

How to press a napped fabric

When sewing seams you may need to press the folded fabric to help keep things secure and neat before stitching. Pressing a napped fabric can actually squash the fibres, damaging the fabric or altering its appearance.

To prevent this, if you have to press fabrics with nap, turn them to the reverse side and place a towel underneath to protect the nap. Just apply the very tip of the iron to the seam, avoiding the bulk of the fabric surface as much as possible.

It's all about direction

So, the whole idea of fabric with nap is really quite simple. Using your sight and touch you can find out whether a fabric has nap or not. And once you've established that, you can make sure you've got the right pattern for that fabric.

Sewing with napped fabric requires a little more care at the cutting and pinning stage, but it's nothing to be afraid of. Follow this simple guide and you'll be well on the way to sewing project success!